How To Smoke Your Tiger II

(Panzerkampfwagen VI Sd.Kfz 182, King Tiger, Royal Tiger, Konigstiger)


By “roll_n_steel” a.k.a. John (jay) H. Morewood

There are several major technical problems with smoke, the main one being space. First there is the smoke generator unit itself, and then there is the extra power/voltage required. I’m using the TAStudios "Turbo Smoke Fan Driven Smoke Unit for AC operation". (I ordered the DC one but received the AC - go figure) The following are steps I took to get the smoke out the dual exhaust pipes.

1) Rewired the entire tank to gain room for extra batteries, 3 custom circuit boards, smoke unit, exhaust manifold, and "the next project" - video feeds from the commanders and drivers position (more to follow when it’s done). I have written schematics for the Tiger II to help me keep track of all the wiring mods. I also relocated the volume control potentiometer to under the rear escape hatch along with a 4 position DIP switch to control the relays that control the following functions -
a) ON/OFF front driving light
b) ON/OFF smoke unit
c) ON/OFF video
d) A/B battery charge selector

(these functions will eventually be remotely controlled by RC switches using receiver channels 4-8). A parallel ON/OFF switch under the loaders periscope was added along with an external charging connector under the jacking block.
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Click to enlarge image
2) Built a custom battery to fit in the space freed up by the rewire. The extra battery (7.2 VDC) consists four 250 NIMH8 cell packs. These are wired in serial with the existing Venom 3600 NiMh 7.2VDC power pack to provide the needed 14.4 VDC to heat up the resistor in the smoke unit and power other functions.
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3) Installed the smoke generator unit in the speaker box since "it’s a big empty unused space". Also the box will contain any spillage of the smoke oil which is VERY messy. Installing the TAStudios "Turbo Smoke Fan Driven Smoke Unit" was a challenge on logical positioning. Face the rear of the Tiger II for the hole placement orientation using the CLRRCS (Center Line off the Right Rear Corner Screw). I suggest carefully taking apart the smoke unit and use the gasket as a hole template...
(Hole placement from the top of Speaker Unit)
a) 3.31mm hole @ CLRRCS left 20.5mm, up 4.0mm (standoff)
b) 2.91mm hole @ CLRRCS left 31.1mm, up 4.0mm (filler hole)
c) 3.31mm hole @ CLRRCS left 41.7mm, up 4.0mm (standoff)
d) 3.31mm hole @ CLRRCS left 20.5mm, up 36.0mm (standoff)
e) 8.76mm hole @ CLRRCS left 31.1mm, up 36.0mm (air inlet hole)
f) 3.31mm hole @ CLRRCS left 41.7mm, up 36.0mm (standoff)
Hole placement on rear (side you are facing)
g) 8.76mm hole @ CLRRCS left 31.1mm, down from top 9.0mm - (smoke exhaust hole)

The standoffs were 19.0mm aluminum which replace the existing screws to provide the necessary spacing for the brass right angle exhaust pipe. I cut up a silicon 12.0mm tube (Hobbeico Exhaust Deflector 12mm HCAP2180) to provide a heat proof seal between the smoke unit and the brass pipes.
Addendum: Use aluminized tape to cover the inside of the speaker box since the smoke unit gets quite HOT !
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4) Fabricate a 1/2" X 1/2" brass elbow for the smoke exhaust pipe out of K&S 3/8"Dia round brass tubing (fun to work with) and connect a Hobbeico Exhaust Deflector 12mm HCAP2180 to the brass exhaust header. (cut off all but a single ring)
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5) To distribute the smoke evenly through the two mufflers and exhaust stacks I scratch build using brass an exhaust smoke manifold. Brass is very easy to work with, so much so that I’m looking for more projects to make/replace out of brass. The manifold is made out of soldered K&S 21/32" round brass stock No. 144 sealed at both ends with dimpled sheet brass, cut in half, and sealed up with 2.25" X 11/16" .015" sheet brass. Solder two brass tubes 3/8"Dia X 1/4" that line up with the two mufflers on the flat side of the exhaust header (these must line up). Open the up holes through the rear hull (sprue D-2) with a tapered reamer. This was a bit tricky since the smoke manifold headers needed to be screwed through the hull into the muffler armor (sprue C-23&24), measure twice and drill once... Two brass smoke manifold headers made out of more K&S 3/8" round brass stock No, 1153 and 3/4" X 3/4" .015" sheet brass were constructed to keep the plastic mufflers from stretching out when the manifold was inserted multiple times during fitting and construction.
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6) The two new exhaust stacks were constructed out of 7.20mm thin walled aluminum tubing. This is a bit tricky since the tubing seems to crimp just by looking at it. I filled the tube with solder and carefully bent it to the correct angle by comparing it to the plastic stock exhaust stacks. The tubing was then heated to melt out the solder. I used a “Gyros” micro saw blade in my Dremel to cut the tubing to size and angle. The exhaust stack ends were slightly flared by pushing a center punch into the end and walking it around (carefully - too much will split the tubing !). The exhaust rings (sprue C-20) were reamed out to snugly fit on the tubing, then the stack assembly was inserted 6.40mm into the mufflers and glued. (all in all I made 3 tries before I was satisfied). I still need to insert the vertical "anti" grenade bar in the stack ends. I Hollowed out the supplied "mufflers" (sprue C-9&10) to fit the smoke manifold headers at the rear hull and the 7.20mm thin walled aluminum tubing exhaust stacks on the other end. The muffler/stacks assemblies were then glued to the rear hull.
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7) Wiring up the smoke unit was another challenge and will vary from application to application. I found that the amount of smoke generated at 7.2VDC a bit too anemic, so I added the custom sized 7.2VDC battery in series (14.4VDC) and was very satisfied with the amount of smoke generated. The black wire goes to ground and the red goes to a switch that is connected to the positive 14.4VDC end of the battery stack. I have acquired a RC switch and used channel 6 on my receiver to turn smoke unit ON/OFF remotely). A “Hall Effect” device was wired to the smoke unit as per the "Wiring with a Non-Sound Equipped Loco" directions which enables full on diesel smoke when the tank goes off idle. The smoke unit sensing circuit is pulsed to ground every time the magnet passes the hall effect sensor causing FULL on smoke generation. The Hall effect sensor is a DN6848 (Digikey DN6848-ND $8.64) that is wired to a DIP reed relay (Dunco MRR1CDL 5VDC) which is connected to the smoke unit. The magnet used is a neodymium magnet (K&J Magnetics D1Y1 1/16" x 1/32" Grade N48) and is glued to the center gear (with MAXI-Cure) in the left gear box. You will have to play with the placement of the sensor a bit and make sure that the south pole of the magnet is facing out from the gear. (HINT - test the magnet placement with the circuit BEFORE gluing !!!)
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  And finally a few indoor pictures of the results -
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B.o.M.

   1 TAStudios "Turbo Smoke Fan Driven Smoke Unit for AC operation"       $69.95
http://www.tastudios.com/turbo_smoke_DC.htm/

   1 Hall effect sensor DN6848 - Digikey DN6848-ND                         $8.64
http://www.digikey.com/

   1 DIP reed relay - Dunco MRR1CDL 5VDC                                   $3.25
http://www.digikey.com/

   1 Neodymium magnet (K&J Magnetics D1Y1 1/16" x 1/32" Grade N48) 100 for $5.50
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/       

   2 Hobbeico Exhaust Deflector 12mm HCAP2180                              $2.89
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/ 

   assorted K&S brass tubing / sheet / rod
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/
    


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